🔗 Share this article

This celebratory, ice-cold chestnut-based dessert has its origins with the famous nineteenth-century cook the chef Carême, who conceded that the opulent creation actually was the work of Monsieur Mony, cook for a Russian diplomat Count Nesselrode. Traditionally, it was accompanied by a hot, spirit-laced sauce, but it is sufficient on its own. It makes an excellent holiday centerpiece.

Prep 15 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 20 min
Freeze 2 hr+
Serves 6

125g currants, or alternatively raisins or even sultanas
50g high-quality chopped candied peel, diced small
75ml maraschino, or another fortified wine of your choice (see step 2)
1 vanilla pod, split, or alternatively 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
600ml whipping cream
4 egg yolks
50g fine sugar
45g almond flakes
125g pre-cooked peeled chestnuts, or plain chestnut puree

1 A Note on the Fruit

Place the fruit and candied peel in a small basin. Mony's method is reported to have used a mix of currants and raisins (although other vine fruit, or indeed any other diced dried fruit of your choice, is suitable), plus candied citron peel, the skin of a mild, thick-skinned citrus. Specialty peel is found on the internet, just like many other candied citrus peels that are superior than the typical chewy, greasy nubs available at supermarkets.

2 Regarding the Spirit

Mix in the liqueur: maraschino, an Italian cherry-flavored liqueur, was the traditional selection, however alternate versions opt for orange liqueur, brandy and noyaux, a nutty spirit using apricot kernels, or a mix of the cherry liqueur with dark rum. Madeira, sherry, port, etc, would surely be suitable, as well. Soak the dried fruit mixture for a couple of hours, or overnight.

3 Flavor the Cream

An hour or so prior to starting, cut the vanilla pod along its side then take a knife's edge to scrape out the tiny seeds. Transfer these seeds along with the scraped pod to a small saucepan containing the whipping cream, heat over low heat to the point of a simmer, and then switch off the flame and leave to flavor. (In case of using extract, mix in using it at once.)

4 Combine the Sugar and Yolks

Set the egg yolks within a bowl that can withstand heat close to the stove (reserve and freeze the egg whites for making cocktails or pavlovas). Slowly warm up the infused cream to reach a gentle simmer. In the meantime, mix the caster sugar with the egg yolk mixture (if you have a notably sweet tooth, you may wish to increase the measure of sugar slightly).

5 Add the Warm Cream

Remove the vanilla bean pod from within the cream, and then vigorously whisk the hot cream into the bowl with the beaten yolks. Pour back to the pan, set it upon a low heat and cook, stirring constantly, to the point where the mixture reaches a coating consistency so that a clear line remains in it on the back of a spatula. Put the pan into a basin with icy water to cool down.

6 Blitz the Chestnuts

In the meantime, brown the flaked almonds in a dry frying pan till golden brown. Should you use whole cooked chestnuts, process them using a food processor, or crush to a powder with a mortar and pestle.

Drain the fruit, add the reserved soaking alcohol into the processed chestnuts and whizz again till uniform paste (should the mixture be too thick, mix in a bit of the cooled custard to help loosen). For those using pre-made chestnut puree, just stir into it the spirit.

7 Make the Frozen Base

Put the chestnut mixture within a big basin, next bit by bit whisk into it the cooled custard until well combined. Churn using an ice cream machine until quite thick consistency. If you don't have a machine, spoon into a solid freezer-safe tub, place a cover on and chill for an hour, then use an electric whisk or a spoon to stir vigorously. Carry out this step roughly every 30 minutes until it is thickened and almost set.

8 Fold in the Drained Fruit and Toasted Almonds

When the ice-cream reaches a semi-solid state, gently mix the drained fruit and almonds through it till evenly dispersed. Prepare a two-pint bowl or baking tin with plastic wrap and carefully transfer the ice-cream into the mould (you may also use a well-greased fancy mould).

Compact the mixture and cover by folding the plastic wrap over the surface to enclose.

9 Freeze, before Serving</